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Happy Weekend (from Copenhagen!)

I’m writing this from Copenhagen! I’m doing a house swap with the darling Brittany of House that Lars Built. We bought some tickets a few months ago because they were 30 Euros. Now that I’m actually here I’m questioning the decision of coming here in the dead of winter. We are traveling with kids but also brought along our friends Rubi and Stanton who are some of my favorite people ever. I’m excited to get into the city tomorrow and do some exploring. Have you ever been to Copenhagen? What was your favorite thing you saw or ate there?

I also write for Babble, here are my posts this week.

See what they did at one of my favorite spots in Paris.
8 Dresses for Valentine’s Day.
I want all of these but especially that peony print.
Sweet new things at JCrew.
I love cooking a meal for Valentines Day. Here are so fancy but easy recipes.


photo from Paul’s instagram

  1. AC

    February 3, 2012

    Now that’s a LOVELY picture.

  2. Jennifer

    February 3, 2012

    Loved Copenhagen when we visited! One of my favorite things was visiting this really cool cemetery – sadly I can’t remember the name, but I remember Hans Christian Andersen is buried there. It’s in the middle of the city and absolutely gorgeous.

  3. mariel

    February 3, 2012

    Kings Garden was nice, just walking around the center of town watching the cyclers (btw, the whole city dresses so well) and for the more adventurous – Freetown Christiania. Have fun!

  4. Drell

    February 3, 2012

    I visited Copenhagen last summer and did the typical touristy stuff which others might find boring: walked down Østergade (which is mainly shops…so might not be very interesting for the kids … or adults) — but there were good bakeries and a couple open flower/farmer’s markets (not sure about the winter time though); took a quick peak inside the Christians Kirke [Christ’s Church]; and we did a canal tour by boat (which might only be a seasonal thing and/or way too cold to do right now). We also hopped on the train to Lund, Sweden (which is about an hour commute) and did some sight-seeing there. [In Lund there’s a great little open-air museum called Kulturen but, again, may not be open during the winter).

  5. Feli

    February 3, 2012

    If you want to try authentic danish food, go to this restaurant: Not very expensive and reeeaally good! Unfortunately they’re only open Monday-Saturday from 11am till 5pm.. But it’s worth it..

  6. Sandra

    February 3, 2012

    Okay – I am COMPLETELY envious! Love all things Danish – design, food, movies (Suzanne Bier the director and Paprika Steen the actress) – it’s all good. Some day…

  7. Delphine

    February 3, 2012

    I remember eating “smorbrods” in Kongens Nytorv! 🙂
    I went there twice or more times 15 years ago…

  8. Sara B

    February 3, 2012

    Assistens Cemetary is where HC Anderson is buried – it is magical. You MUST bring the kids to Tivoli, it is worth every penny – Walt Disney’s inspiration for Disneyland. Go see the boats in Nyhavnt (harbor). If you have time for a trip out of the city go to Fredricksborg Castle in Hillerød- a real castle that’s been made into the national museum in a really cute little town. Be sure and go shopping at Tiger (ten) aka Danish dollar store! THE CUTEST STUFF EVER!

    And if you are cold, just light some candles and get hyggelig (cozy). Have fun!

    p.s. I would NOT take the kids to Christiania… 🙂

  9. The New Diplomats Wife

    February 3, 2012

    i’ve never been but there was a great episode on it on house hunters intl last week (hehe!). the main square looked lovely, they mentioned pastries several times which seems like a good indoor thing to do, and everyone keeps talking about all the great design in the various shops (again more places to hide from the cold!)
    I always love Monocle’s one pagers for quick go-to’s when i find myself somewhere new:

  10. Claire

    February 3, 2012

    Copenhagen is really beautiful and unique. If you have time, go to the self-proclaimed autonomous neighbourhood, the free town “Christiana”. This is very interesting. It is in town. I guess that’s ok with kids. Ask people before.
    Have fun!

  11. Stephanie

    February 3, 2012

    I was supposed to go there myself last November, but had to cancel for personal reasons =( Have a wonderful time!

  12. Sarah

    February 3, 2012

    Make sure to get Smushi from The Royal Cafe (And check out their shop)!

  13. Rose

    February 3, 2012

    A house swap! I never actually knew anyone who had done one! You’ll have to write more about the pros and cons!

  14. Di

    February 3, 2012

    Danes do “hygge” so well – sort of means cosy. THe cafes have outdoor tables with heated lamps and blankets to wrap yourself in. The best bakery was on Torvegade right opposite the Christian metro station – called Lagkagehuset….you can watch them baking and then gorge on the products! Delicious.

  15. Cina

    February 3, 2012

    Visit Louisiana in Humlebæk north of Copenhagen. A must.
    A nice blog: Only in Danish, but might be helpful anyway.
    Enjoy your stay!

  16. PAIGE

    February 3, 2012

    I used to live in Copenhagen and Sankt Peders Bageri, near Norreport station, was always the best. Grab something there and head down the street to The Living Room, a very cozy cafe with couches and a fire place, for a bit of break during your day. Its very “hygge” and very fun!

    Have a great time! The Danes are so friendly!

  17. winD

    February 3, 2012

    I’m living in Copenhagen 🙂
    Here’s my recommendation :

    If you like Danish design, you can come to Danish Museum of Art and Design (, you can go to this place on your way to Little Mermaid from Amalienborg Castle.

    If you walk along the Gamle Strand (Stroget) (this is the old lane) you can visit Illum Bolighus, Royal Copenhagen Museum, or Hay (

    Are you planning to visit Lousiana Museum? I think you will love the scene there, even in winter :).

    You must come to Torvehallerne Kobenhavn ( It’s a new heap in town. A market of Danish product. You can find authentic chocolate stand there like Summerbird and A X O C O from Anton Berg.

    Here, you must try Flodeboller and smorbord.

    Oh ya, this week is Copenhagen Fashion Week Festival (, you might be interested.

    I hope you have a great time in Copenhagen. 🙂

  18. Hannah

    February 3, 2012

    I’ve never been to Copenhagen, but I’d sure love to go someday!

  19. alex wijnen

    February 3, 2012

    I used to live in Denmark as a kid and don’t remember much of Copenhagen except Tivoli and the amazing carousel – I could ride that thing for hours and hours… Have a great time!!!

  20. Lena

    February 3, 2012

    I used to live in Copenhagen. Definitely take the train to Louisiana and a walk through Stroget. And Sara B’s suggestions are great. Have fun. I’m jealous!

  21. Jessie

    February 3, 2012

    ah Copenhagen, going for a day trip this coming Monday, for work, but hopefully get a stroll in! Love this place. I agree with Alex W, tivoli is a great place to visit what ever your age and also, Lena, a visit to Louisanna is a must.enjoy.

  22. donginshin

    February 3, 2012

    Oh I love Copenhagen one of most beautiful city with brick buildings! It’s very convenient at shopping 🙂 you must take a cannel trip but it’s freezing they don’t runs it now… well! but you should go and eat at Jensen’s Bøfhus! It’s delicious and very good price! Also at the old city by the cannel there is very famous Ice-cream shop you need to experience 🙂 that area has lots wonderful restaurants. And you can take a train for 20minutes to Malmö its in Sweden. It’s multicultural city in Scandinavia! oh I miss copenhagen, should go next week or so. by the way I’m living in southern part of Sweden!

  23. jess @ fushmush

    February 3, 2012

    My favourite thing in Copenhagen is Vors Frelser church. It’s a churchspire which you can climb but the last bit of the climb is on the outside of the spire. It was scarily awesome.

    Tivoli would be great for kids I think. But I can’t speak from experience. We managed to visit Copenhagen on the only two weeks of year when Tivoli is closed *sad face*.

  24. Elaina

    February 3, 2012

    Hope you enjoy your time here in Copenhagen and your stay at Brittany and Paul’s – they have such a cute and cozy place! Brittany probably already told you of the best places but here are a few of my suggestions, some are seconding others:

    – Canal tour: great way to some of the major sights and get a sense of the city layout. They have covered boats this time of year. Get a hot chocolate and some pastry in the morning and go on a early tour.
    – The Royal Cafe: The smushis (mini smørrebrød or traditional open faced sandwiches) are so good, and served on pretty Royal Copenhagen plates. The hot chocolate is really great too!
    – Illums: a home design store that is like going to a design museum. Great selection of Danish/Scandinavian design and they always have interesting displays. It’s right next to the Royal Cafe in the main square in the city centre.
    -Stilleben: The best handmade/craft store in Copenhagen
    – Patisserie La Glace: Probably don’t need this coming from Paris but it is a really cute old fashioned bakery, serving macrons and Danish pastries
    – Lego flagship store: I could imagine that the kids might like this!
    – Retro Villa: Cute interiors store with vintage wallpaper and toys
    – Te a la Menthe: Bright, Moroccan tea room. Nice for cold weather!
    – The National Museum: The Viking artifacts are fascinating and also has an amazing collection of vintage toys, ephemera and dollhouses and an 18th century interiors wing.
    – The Botanical Gardens: Definitely worth a visit, especially if you are cold. Has beautiful, historical glass houses and a pretty park with sculptures.
    – Church of Our Saviour: A beautiful church in Christianshavn (a pretty part of the city with lots of canals and old buildings), you can walk up the spiral tower for a great view.
    – Jærsborgade: an interesting, hip street in the north of the city with lots of studios, cafes and thrift shops. Really good restaurants too, like Relæ and Manfreds. It’s right near the Assistens Cemetery which people have already mentioned, where the famous Danes are buried.
    – Torvehallen: the new fancy food court/market near Nørreport metro station which has a great collection of stalls and a good sampling of some of the best Copenhagen has to offer.
    – The lakes: There are five man made lakes just past the city centre that are nice for an afternoon walk and some swan sightings.
    – Lousiana and Arken are both good for day trips to see modern art. Both are in pretty natural locations too.
    – Tivoli is great but is unfortunately closed for the season.

    Feel free to write to me (@elainakeppler on Twitter) if you need anything! I’m pretty much right down the street. Have fun!

  25. Elaina

    February 3, 2012

    *Oops – meant Jægersborggade!

  26. Rachel

    February 3, 2012

    Frederiksborg castle is a must! I’m sure you already know this, but that’s where over 20 original Carl Bloch paintings hang. It’s kind of funny because for being so famous, they’re all packed in a very small room close together. Still, they’re gorgeous and you will love them! Not to mention the beautiful grounds.

    Also, the Vor Frue Kirken church or ‘Church of our lady’ you HAVE to go to! That’s where the original Christus statue is. Many apostles have visited there and it is a special place.

    Enjoy 🙂

  27. Tan

    February 3, 2012

    Copenhagen is definitely on my list. have a great time!

  28. Mrs. Princess Pookie

    February 3, 2012

    What a cutie blog. You are a super hero for moving your family abroad. What an experience you’ll never forget. Super cool! Thank you for sharing…I can live vicariously through you. Hee hee. Oh boy, warm milk, that’s gotta be nasty crap!

    Stay happy! Cheers!

  29. deirdre pharr

    February 4, 2012

    We were in Copenhagen last year with our 5 and 3 year olds and they loved Tivoli (wonderfully not comercial) and the boat ride through the harbor..not sure if both are seasonal but they are still talking about wanting to go back to do both.
    We found that nice restaurants were happy to have us with children when we went early.
    Frederiksborg castle was beautiful but I do not recommend the tour of the ramparts with children. It was pitch black in parts. Our older daughter begged to go but we now we fear she will be scared of castles for life.

  30. Mini Piccolini

    February 4, 2012

    You could spend hours at Illum Bolighus and still not get enough. They also have a COS (H&M’s more sophisticated big sister) in CPH. And food-wise, red hot dogs and beer in Nyhavn!

  31. Louise

    February 4, 2012

    Well I’m a dane and I just love to see that so many of you have so many nice things to say about my capital <3
    Copenhagen is a beatiful city and the snow just adds to fairytale-feel. If you have the time, please do all the things recormented. If not, make Tivoli and some of the castels a priority. The kids will love it! Tivoli is decorated with hundreds and thousends of lights in the wintertime, so beautiful! All the castels are beautiful, but I would recorment a visit to Rosenborg, where all the crown jewels are on display.
    If you want to step of the tourist track, you should visit the blog Classic Copenhagen for inspiration (
    Have fun in Copenhagen -and please spread the word about the tiny kingdom of Denmark 🙂

  32. Olivia

    February 4, 2012

    I love Copenhagen and Denmark so much I am writing my first comment! We lived there for two months last year and have seriously considered relocating from NYC.

    I agree with many of the other suggestions, especially exploring Nyhavn and Christiania (totally safe for kids, in my opinion. They promote peace and freedom and I would imagine that children are a priority in their society.). Also, this is going to sound crazy, but we ate some of the best Indian/Middle Eastern food ever here and seriously ate there 3 times/ week sometimes! Kebabish is basically a kebab shop but the food is cheap and sooooo good. This is in a very good location, where you can easily walk to Tivoli, explore the lakes (totally recommend), check out the Radhuspladsen, wander to the main shopping drag Stroget. Get ice cream from Paradis and check out the Lego store here. Copenhagen is a walking city! Plus, from Kebabish you can see the back of the old train station which is painted all crazy sherbet colors.

    underwater “secret” statue:
    statues that tell the weather:

    so jealous! have a ball!

  33. ClaraAnne

    February 4, 2012

    hdesigned entirely [It was also the first skyscraper in Copenhagen].
    Also, a visit to Amalienborg palace might be nice for the kids with the changing of guards and its accompanying band at 12 noon daily. From Amalienborg, look across the river for a brilliant view of the beautiful Opera House. You can also take a short walk to the little mermaid from there. If the sun is out, maybe also visit the Black Diamond, a lovely granite structure perched by the water which actually houses the public library.

  34. ClaraAnne

    February 4, 2012

    Sorry, seems that my earlier post got clipped at the beginning:

    Just got back from Copenhagen. Love the suggestions but don’t forget that Tivoli is closed for the season though! I have to say, Copenhagen is one of the easiest cities to get around even in snowy weather. Do pop by Radisson Blu if you’re an Arne Jacobsen fan to see the hotel that he designed entirely [It was also the first skyscraper in Copenhagen].
    Also, a visit to Amalienborg palace might be nice for the kids with the changing of guards and its accompanying band at 12 noon daily. From Amalienborg, look across the river for a brilliant view of the beautiful Opera House. You can also take a short walk to the little mermaid from there. If the sun is out, maybe also visit the Black Diamond, a lovely granite structure perched by the water which actually houses the public library.

  35. Alice

    February 4, 2012

    I was actually quite disappointed with Copenhagen and found it ridiculously expensive. But I would love to go back, especially after watching lots of Danish TV thrillers like The Killing or Borgen.

  36. Jennifer

    February 4, 2012

    We took our children to Copenhagen last year before driving on to Legoland. What a lovely city! Our kids are still young so they enjoyed the open space to run and play at Tivoli Gardens. The canal tours are also fun for the kids but give you some history and a good overview of places to see. If you have time Odense is a lovely place to visit and the Hans Christian Anderson Museum is there as well.

  37. Geri

    February 4, 2012

    I spent a semester abroad and Copenhagen and loved just about everything but the weather in Winter.
    For food in the inner city, I would definitely recommend Riz Raz (, which has the most amazing all-vegetarian buffet. It’s slightly pricy but absolutely worth it. Also, Soupanatural ( has a whole lot of soups that come with homemade bread. It’s one of the cheaper places I found for lunch, and the atmosphere is very cozy. I would avoid getting much food on Stroget (the main pedestrian street) because it is such a touristy area. You can also get some authentic Danish food around Gammeltorv (one of the main squares near City Hall), but you could just as easily buy things like Rugbrød (the dense rye bread for smørrebrød), leverpostej (liver paste–the Danish peanut butter, basically), smoked laks (salmon), and more for much cheaper at a grocery store and put it together yourself. Near Gammeltorv, on Nørregade, is this amazing and expensive design-y store called Notre Dame.
    There are lots of towers you can pay a small fee to climb and see awesome views, like the Round Tower, which has a crazy history, and the spiral tower, which is close to Christiania, if you go there. Morgenstedet is a really delicious and cheap vegetarian restaurant in Christiania.
    Go to the National Museum because it is free and amazing. While there’s lots of historic artifacts and natural history exhibits, my favorite is the toy and dollhouse exhibit. You can go around the backs of the dollhouses and look inside!
    If you go to Christiansborg, which houses Parliament, you should go down to see Bishop Absalon’s ruins! Christiansborg has a crazy history because it’s burned down so many times, and they found ruins dating back to the 12th century when building the most recent Christiansborg in the early 20th century.
    As for getting around, you can rent bicycles from Baisikeli (, which is a nonprofit that sends all proceeds to fund bringing bikes to Africa to help people get around. Biking in Copenhagen is an amazing experience. Public transportation is also amazing in Copenhagen, and you can buy a pass for a day or a few days, which gives you access to the buses, S-tog, Metro, and Harbor Bus (the boat to cross the harbor). Price is based on the number of zones, so if you’re staying in the inner city or just outside, it should be pretty inexpensive.
    Enjoy! Copenhagen is an awesome city!

  38. Kitterlee

    February 4, 2012

    Ice cream! We got these ice cream cones that were the creamiest, awesomest texture. Yum. Tivoli is darling. We happened into a Rodin museum, and it was wonderful. It’s a beautiful city – enjoy!

  39. noelle

    February 4, 2012

    i also love rubi and stanton!
    have fun

  40. Chris

    February 4, 2012

    Love your website with all the positive and colorful vibes! Enjoy Paris, wish I’ll be back someday again. I have lots of good and memorable memories a few years back. Wish you find new discoveries and inspirations in Paris!

    Love from a little country call Singapore

  41. elissa

    February 5, 2012

    hope you’re having an amazing time. i’ve never been to copenhagen before but hopefully will some day. can’t wait to hear about your time there.

  42. laura

    February 5, 2012

    i have always wanted to go to copenhagen! hope you post more about your time there. is it really terribly expensive?

  43. Victoria@VictoryPaper

    February 5, 2012

    Aw we’re cooking our meal for Valentine’s Day too! I’ve enrolled us in a cooking class for 2 where we’ll be learning to make a Japanese meal complete with sushi and sake.

  44. jess

    February 6, 2012

    Thank you for your beautiful photos and wonderful DIYs. Especially your pinata ideas totally inspired me on Australia Day to make one, thanks for the practical steps! Very much appreciate you sharing all your adorable DIYs, I wanted to ensure you got credit for the inspiration when I blogged about it

    Happy Monday!

    xx jess

  45. melissa

    February 6, 2012

    i’m living in northern denmark right now (just for a year), and my husband and i were just in copenhagen this weekend, too. what a great city! hope you got to see some nice museums: the carlsberg glyptotek is great and they have some wonderful post-impressionist works there, including a full set of degas bronzes (although, you may get enough of that in paris…). the david samling is also wonderful – a museum of beautiful middle-eastern artifacts and art.

    you should try to get back in the summertime, as the weather there was awful this weekend – so cold! in the summer there are many wonderful cafes and parks to see, and the kids would like tivoli (closed until april). also, try eating at relea or noma – too good to miss!

  46. Adeline

    February 6, 2012

    Incidentally, I am planning a trip to Copenhagen next month -so this post and all the comments are really going to come in handy! =D

    hello from Singapore too!

  47. Becca

    February 6, 2012

    What a lovely day! the sun beam are perfect to jog and walking.
    hope you had a great weekend.

  48. eliotgrace

    February 6, 2012

    we were there last summer and we had a lovely time! rent some bikes and explore this beautiful city! I second Lousiana Museum – gorgeous setting, quiet and peaceful neighborhood.

    there is a large park west of the city in Fredricksborg(?) – the children can have fun running around, feeding ducks, etc.

    take a train to helsingor and see hamlet’s castle! i think the kids would enjoy that as well! enjoy!

  49. carina

    February 7, 2012

    Sorry I haven’t seen this post before now. I live here in Copenhagen so I could have given you plenty of ideas. Feel free to do a house swap with me some day:-) It seems that you have received plenty of advice in the previous comments – nice to see that so many people love this city as much as I do. But i’m sorry you’re visiting just now – the weather is horrible. Hope you can come back in the spring or summer.


  50. Laura

    February 7, 2012

    I was lucky enough to spend a few weeks in Copenhagen last summer for school. Summer is such a beautiful time there – I rented a bike for my entire stay, and found that biking around the city (and out into the country) is such a fantastic way to explore. As for food, I wholeheartedly agree with the previous poster about Riz Raz, which was probably my favorite restaurant experience. However, I also found that, surprisingly, the pølsevogne (hot dog carts) were fantastic! Danish sausages are amazing … who knew?

    Also, I went across the sound to Malmö for a couple of days and had the most relaxing experience of my life at a beautiful sauna overlooking the sound. I hear Scandinavians have a thing for saunas … probably because of the cold, grey winters!

    Hope you all had a lovely trip.

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